12.24.2006 Merry Christmas from Nosara – and from a guest writer, Erik’s mom.
Costa Rica is wonderful. The air is balmy and fragrant even in San Jose. Mountains rise on each side of the city, framing the urban sprawl with bold, purple strokes. Our first night, in San Jose, we stayed at Hotel Casa Roland, filled with original art from Central America. Our room alone had six oil paintings. After our visit with the obstetrician, who told us to enjoy our baby-wait in Nosara, we left the traffic and hotel beds behind and drove to Nosara to enjoy the holiday season.
Doesn’t truly feel like Christmas, here: Nosarans don’t put up many decorations; they don’t play Christmas carols in the stores; even the tourists are more intent on the waves and the weather than on the season. We, however, have our 12” collapsible tree, trimmed in dollar store garland and Sarah’s finger puppets, on the dining room table surrounded by Christmas cards and a tiny stuffed snowman. Perfect. We’d rather have a baby, but she will come soon.
Undaunted by our disappointment at no daughter, we’ve been busy enjoying the area. Here are the highlights:
• Watched two fishermen clean a 200-pound, five foot tuna on the beach. They hacked out foot-square shoulders and great slabs of red meat. Afterwards thirty buzzards filled the trees and danced around the carcass with two neighborhood dogs. It was a scene from National Geographic – and I didn’t have my camera!
• Enjoyed a troupe of monkeys climb down the mountain in the tops of trees. The troupe consisted of several families and many youngsters, and their trail was easily five stories above the ground. One little guy got to the edge of a tree and couldn’t make the leap to the next tree. He swung back to his mother who hoisted him on her back and leaped across the gap. Last in line, a huge male hooted to the stragglers and shooed them along. The troupe was so large, they took half an hour to pass Andrew’s porch. Meanwhile, we watched the sun flame out behind the silhouettes of Guancaste and palm trees.
• Shopped in a typical open-air grocery store that stocked one of everything. The second story walls of the store were totally open, protected from rain by a wide overhang, but through which the road dust wafts unabated. When we got home, Sarah and I rubbed the dust off the groceries and put them away.
• Journeyed to a bat cave where the ceiling quivered with suspended creatures who jostled and bumped for space in the slim light reflected from the watery floor.
• Talked with Erik’s neighbor who charters fishing trips. He had just returned from a day trip which boated four forty pound dolphin, a 400 pound blue marlin, and a 600 pound black marlin. Later, talked to a second captain who knocked the poundage down to half. Even at half – a pretty good day for a sport fisherman on vacation!
• Spent a leisurely afternoon rummaging the gift shops in Nosara, which have beautiful Costa Rican and Central American crafts at affordable prices.
• Spent an intense and interesting morning at dog school with Erik and Thor. Most impressive and obedient dogs. Thor is as amazing as Erik says – and lovable in the bargain.
• Relaxed deeply with my first-ever body massage performed by an exquisite local woman with the hands of a goddess.
• Enjoyed amazing food at Rosie’s (breakfast and lunch), Robin’s (mid day and ice cream), and (my favorite) La Dolce Vita (fabulous dinner). The most delicious food was served at Sarah’s table.
• Walked on the beach and played in the ocean every day. The waves have been overhead (for the surfers) with very little rip (for us casual bathers).
All of this in only four days. Today is Christmas Eve. Nothing planned so far except a quiet dinner with Andrew. We’re planning on a picnic for Christmas. We’re taking the grill, and Erik and Andrew are going to try to spear our dinner. We return to San Jose on the 26th. Sarah has just informed us that she will not return to Nosara sans baby. The return trip, with baby, will be on the second mother’s shift.
Even with no baby on my watch – we’ve had a magnificent week. We’re going to have a very merry and blessed Christmas. Y’all do the same.
Momma
Costa Rica is wonderful. The air is balmy and fragrant even in San Jose. Mountains rise on each side of the city, framing the urban sprawl with bold, purple strokes. Our first night, in San Jose, we stayed at Hotel Casa Roland, filled with original art from Central America. Our room alone had six oil paintings. After our visit with the obstetrician, who told us to enjoy our baby-wait in Nosara, we left the traffic and hotel beds behind and drove to Nosara to enjoy the holiday season.
Doesn’t truly feel like Christmas, here: Nosarans don’t put up many decorations; they don’t play Christmas carols in the stores; even the tourists are more intent on the waves and the weather than on the season. We, however, have our 12” collapsible tree, trimmed in dollar store garland and Sarah’s finger puppets, on the dining room table surrounded by Christmas cards and a tiny stuffed snowman. Perfect. We’d rather have a baby, but she will come soon.
Undaunted by our disappointment at no daughter, we’ve been busy enjoying the area. Here are the highlights:
• Watched two fishermen clean a 200-pound, five foot tuna on the beach. They hacked out foot-square shoulders and great slabs of red meat. Afterwards thirty buzzards filled the trees and danced around the carcass with two neighborhood dogs. It was a scene from National Geographic – and I didn’t have my camera!
• Enjoyed a troupe of monkeys climb down the mountain in the tops of trees. The troupe consisted of several families and many youngsters, and their trail was easily five stories above the ground. One little guy got to the edge of a tree and couldn’t make the leap to the next tree. He swung back to his mother who hoisted him on her back and leaped across the gap. Last in line, a huge male hooted to the stragglers and shooed them along. The troupe was so large, they took half an hour to pass Andrew’s porch. Meanwhile, we watched the sun flame out behind the silhouettes of Guancaste and palm trees.
• Shopped in a typical open-air grocery store that stocked one of everything. The second story walls of the store were totally open, protected from rain by a wide overhang, but through which the road dust wafts unabated. When we got home, Sarah and I rubbed the dust off the groceries and put them away.
• Journeyed to a bat cave where the ceiling quivered with suspended creatures who jostled and bumped for space in the slim light reflected from the watery floor.
• Talked with Erik’s neighbor who charters fishing trips. He had just returned from a day trip which boated four forty pound dolphin, a 400 pound blue marlin, and a 600 pound black marlin. Later, talked to a second captain who knocked the poundage down to half. Even at half – a pretty good day for a sport fisherman on vacation!
• Spent a leisurely afternoon rummaging the gift shops in Nosara, which have beautiful Costa Rican and Central American crafts at affordable prices.
• Spent an intense and interesting morning at dog school with Erik and Thor. Most impressive and obedient dogs. Thor is as amazing as Erik says – and lovable in the bargain.
• Relaxed deeply with my first-ever body massage performed by an exquisite local woman with the hands of a goddess.
• Enjoyed amazing food at Rosie’s (breakfast and lunch), Robin’s (mid day and ice cream), and (my favorite) La Dolce Vita (fabulous dinner). The most delicious food was served at Sarah’s table.
• Walked on the beach and played in the ocean every day. The waves have been overhead (for the surfers) with very little rip (for us casual bathers).
All of this in only four days. Today is Christmas Eve. Nothing planned so far except a quiet dinner with Andrew. We’re planning on a picnic for Christmas. We’re taking the grill, and Erik and Andrew are going to try to spear our dinner. We return to San Jose on the 26th. Sarah has just informed us that she will not return to Nosara sans baby. The return trip, with baby, will be on the second mother’s shift.
Even with no baby on my watch – we’ve had a magnificent week. We’re going to have a very merry and blessed Christmas. Y’all do the same.
Momma
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