Wednesday, November 15, 2006

Hello all... for the last few days I have been on a surf trip. The rainy season seemed to wind down, and with the arrival of a nice south swell, Adu and I decided to try out a few new spots. We scored some barrels, got skunked, but travelling is fun. It is so sweet to live within 70 minutes drive to remote breaks and reefs.

Lil Den Den and Dixon will be down on Satuday! They are our first real visitors, and we are setting up some killer trips with them. We are planning on hitting up Witches Rock or Ollie's if the swell cooperates.

I wish I had brought my camera for the past few trips, but I like it way too much to leave it in the car while surfing... We have seen some funny things. Yesterday, for example we watched a Ox Cart driven by an old tico and his grandson cross a long bridge. We were at the other side waiting for him to cross as all bridges are one way here. So the guy gets off and tries to get out of our way real quick and gives the oxes a swat and they walk off the side of the road into a little ditch. Just stuff you don't see back in the grand ol'US of A.

Sarah and I are getting ready having a baby, and I have to admit, from time to time I get a bit nervous. I am pumped for January, with a healthy wife and baby, but I just want to get to that point. I feel like I am on cruise control right now.

Anyways, not too much new news other than that... surf, eat, thor, baby... not too bad.

Oh, one solid note... no one ever witnesses anything I do while surfing that is cool or whatever, well yesterday my friends were on the beach and I caught the last wave in a boosted a big backside air with a solid rotation (didn't pull it, but came pretty close) and it got witnessed...

On that note, the waves are solid today, and I am heading out to get some.

E.